TASMANIA
Tasmania is an enigma - part of Australia yet like no other
destination the world’s smallest continent has to offer.
Australia’s largest offshore island was once joined to
the mainland by a narrow land bridge now submerged by the
rising seas following the last southern ice age 10 000 years
ago. Much to the chagrin of the islanders they are often forgotten
as a part of the geo/political Australian view and their unique
state does not espouse the outback characteristic, which has
almost become an Australian cliché. For those prepared
to be tempted by the very different, unusual, innovative and
quality blend of nature, culture, history, heritage and lifestyle,
tasting Tasmania is the ultimate contrast to the Australian
experience.
Situated on the fringe of the great Southern Ocean, buffeted
by the Roaring Forties on its south western flank and bathed
by a temperate sun on its eastern seaboard this is a fertile
outcrop washed by powerful ocean currents bringing nutrients
and sealife from all points of the compass. This has evolved
one of the most diverse and productive marine communities
in the world ranging from the delicate sea dragons to the
world’s largest marine plant — the giant kelp. It
is this cool clean ocean water that has spawned a growing
aquaculture industry to compliment the natural bounties of
delicious seafood’s harvested from its depths. Atlantic
salmon, ocean trout, pacific oysters, mussels, rock lobster
and an array of coastal and deep sea fish are just some of
the quality products exported to the world and processed to
perfection by the Mure family at their Hobart restaurants.
The clear highland lakes and tarns set in stunning wilderness
surrounds also harbour a productive trout fishery, both for
the avid sportsfisher and those seeking fine dining.
The sea has shaped much of the human history of the island.
From the first hunter-gatherers of the Tasmanian Aborigines
and the early whaling and sealing history there has been a
growing awareness, development and protection of the marine
environment to maintain its bounty. Possessing some of the
finest boat building timbers in the world, Tasmania evolved
a flourishing maritime industry and reputation for fine craftsmanship.
Today this legacy carries on in the world leading, state of
the art wave piercing catamarans, which regularly ferry cars
and passengers across the English Channel. At the same time
there has been a revival of the old skills and traditions
of working in wood at the Wooden Boat Building School in Franklin
on the shores of the Houn River.
Nearly one third of the island is dedicated wilderness. The
mountains are not high by world standards but have a spectacular
aspect of hanging lakes, wild rivers carving deep gorges,
button grass tussock plains and jagged peaks carved by the
glacial forces of the southern ice ages and honed by the wild
winds and weathering of timeless ages. Mix in one of the last
great temperate rainforests which relates to Southern Chile
and fossilized remnants in Antarctica and you have one of
the worlds most precious heritage areas. Of all the places
I have visited and explored this has the most primeval feel
effectively presented as a backdrop for the award winning
documentary ‘Walking with Dinosaurs’. You can access
the many different features of this wilderness by foot, raft,
sea kayak, and luxury cruiser; float plane, helicopter, heritage
railway and many more combinations to suit your taste and
inclination.
The clean air, water and disease free environment have given
rise to a growing organic farm movement and quality produce
production that takes in much of the fertile growing lands
of the island. Wine growing now is replacing the traditional
apple orchards as well as a myriad of gourmet food products
from wild game, superb cheeses, unique leatherwood honey,
assorted berries and exotic fruits all complimented by the
already superb sea foods. The historic origins of the convict
settlement, English farming and merchant establishment, timber
getters and miners mixed with a strong Aboriginal culture
which survived the genocidal colonial attempts to extinguish
it creates a rich cultural fabric. Art and crafts thrive in
this environment best demonstrated by the vibrancy of the
regular Saturday market in Salamanca Place in old Hobart Town
and myriad of cottage enterprises which dot all the occupied
parts of the island.
This is indeed a destination abundant with riches and one
were it is easy to gain a sense of place and in a short time
feel the essence of one of Australia’s true treasures.
Taste it and enjoy!
Joc Schmiechen
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